July 17, 2010

Taipei Shiding。Wandering on the East and West Street

石碇是個蘊藏歷史的老街,有特殊的吊腳樓、不見天的建築、還有百年的豆腐店、打鐵店及石頭厝,豐富且獨特的人文景觀,相當值得細走探訪。老街以萬壽橋做區分,分為東街與西街。東街開發的較西街晚,早期為乞丐的聚集地,故有「乞丐寮」之稱。西街人口逐漸飽和後,便開始在東街蓋起了房子居住,漸漸形成了街市,販賣的日用雜貨種類齊全。後來煤礦產業的興起,讓東街取代了西街,一躍成了石碇最繁榮的地方。

Shiding is an ancient street which has the unique Diaojiaolou, Skylight-Less architecture, century old tofu shop, blacksmith shop, and stone house. It has very rich and unique scenery and is worthwhile to visit. This old street is divided by the Wanshou Bridge into East and West Streets. The East Street was developed after the West Street. Beggars liked to gather on the East Street in the early days so it was also named “Beggars Liao”. After the West Street was populated, houses started to be built on the East Street which formed a shopping and grocery store area. Following the rise of coal mine industry, the East Street replaced the West Street and became the most prosperous area.

老街最引人注目的,就是懸在河床上的「吊腳樓」,房子臨溪而建、懸空而築,僅靠一根根石柱支撐著。

The most eye-catching is the "Diaojiaolou". The houses there look like hanging on the river bed and built by the creek. The only support of the house is the stone column.

這是由於石碇溪兩岸的腹地相當狹小,不得不與河爭地,才將房子半懸在河床上,因此有了這樣的建築奇觀。石碇鄉公所把吊腳樓柱子處鋪設步道,遊客可以沿溪散步,不過,比較狹窄且某些地方比較濕滑,步行時要小心點。

Because the limited space on both sides of the Shiding Creek; the houses were built right next to the creek and half of the structures hanging, which formed this unique scene. There is a walking path around the Diaojiaolou columns for the visitor to stroll through; however, it is slippery on the narrow path area, so walk carefully.

石碇東街還保留著特別的「不見天」的內街形式。因這裡的街道十分狹窄,寬僅二、三公尺,房子彼此的距離很近,再加上為有效利用空間,街道的上方均被建築物所覆蓋,步行其中根本曬不到太陽,因而被稱為不見天。

Shiding East Street has kept the “Skylight-Less” inner street. With the 2 to 3 meter wide narrow streets, the houses were built on top of the street and close to each other to save space. Walking in this inner street, you would never see the sun; so it is also called “Skylight-Less “street.

早期石碇房子的建材是取用溪中的石頭,現今大多已改建成水泥樓,唯獨東街裡的這幢百年石頭厝,依舊保留著當時的樣貌。可惜的是,非假日不開放,我無緣見到房子內部。

註:這間石頭厝,最早是一間中藥鋪,後來才兼做雜貨及五金買賣,裡頭還保有許多石器與古老的製藥器材。特別的是,在二次大戰期間,為了躲避美軍空襲,而在房子的岩壁上挖鑿了一個固若金湯的防空洞,屋前的牆壁上還有二個方型小孔,用來架設槍桿以防止盜匪侵入。

In the early days, the houses here were built with the stones from the creek; it was re-built with concrete. Only a few century old stone houses left on the East Street are kept with the original look. However, it is not open during weekdays and I was not able to go inside.

PS: This ancient stone house was a Chinese medicine store and then became a grocery store afterwards. It still preserved many ancient stone tools and pharmaceutical equipment. During the World War II, In order to avoid U.S. air raids, the house on the cliffs was dogged into a bulletproof air-raid shelter. Two square holes are found on the front wall for holding the guns for protection against from bandits.

從河的對岸看石頭厝。這外牆,應該是後來修的吧!底下那棵「枯樹」,應該是櫻花樹,開花時,這個畫面應該會很美。

The exterior walls seem to be re-built. I could see the exterior wall from the other side of the creek. The “dry up tree” underneath should be a Sakura tree. It would look pretty when it blossoms.

轉角處有間相當有名的百年豆腐店「王家豆腐」,也是因為非假日而沒開,據說台灣有名的深坑豆腐有六、七成是來自這裡。

On the corner of the street, the famous century old “Wang’s Tofu” is here. It did not open during weekday as well. It is said that 60-70% of the famous Shenkeng Tofu are made here.

石碇東街還有一間百年的傳統打鐵店「遠光打鐵店」,目前已經傳到第三代了。過去因附近的泰雅族人鐵的取得不易,他們就到石碇來以物易物換取番刀。

The century old traditional "Yuanguang Blacksmith Shop" is located on the East Street. It is operated by the third generation currently. In the past, the nearby Atayal native came here to exchange items for the iron knife since it was hard to find the iron.

店內的這些古老器具依舊能使用,都是珍貴的活歷史。如果幸運的話還能親眼看到製鐵過程呢!

These old equipment in this shop are still workable, so they are very valuable. You may be able to see how the iron metal is made if you are lucky.

走完了石碇東街,來逛逛西街吧!

西街是石碇的茶葉集散中心,也是主要發源地,當時這裡為台灣的三大茶市之一,後來東街的發展比西街還熱鬧,因而很多人提到石碇老街都只想到東街,而把西街給遺忘了。

After strolling through the East Street, let’s stroll through the West Street!

The West Street is a tea distribution center. It was one of the three major tea markets in Taiwan. Because of East Street’s greater popularity, the East Street usually comes out first when people mention Shiding.

從東街過了萬壽橋沿街漫步,沒多久便可來到一個小空地,集順廟與石碇國小就在空地旁。「集順廟」是先民們為祈求開墾山坡平安順利而建的,而廟前這小小的一塊廣場,可是當年商賈雲集的熱鬧之地!山上的茶農將茶葉一擔擔地挑來此地出售,而各地的茶販亦湧來採購,廣場上人群磨肩擦踵,常是擠得水泄不通。

After passed the Wanshou Bridge, the Jishun Temple and Shiding Elementary can be seen. Jishun Temple was built for the local residents praying for the safety of the slope development. The front opening area of the temple used to be the busiest area. The farmers brought their teas to sell here. With gathering of buyers and sellers, this area used to be very crowded and packed.

西街的房子雖然改建為水泥建築,老街風貌也不如東街保存完整,但這裡仍然可以感受到純樸的氛圍。

Although the houses on the West Street have been rebuilt into concrete structures, this old street was not preserved as good as the East Street. It still maintains a simple and quiet atmosphere though.

這是間意外發現的舊牲畜屠宰場遺址。殘破敗壞的磚造與水泥建築,已堆滿了附近居民的雜物,照片中央那長方型的水泥平台,就是舊時的大灶台。

This is the slaughter house ruins. It was all covered by the junk in this abandoned brick and concrete building. The rectangular shape of the concrete platform was a large stove.

天花板上還垂吊著生鏽的鐵鍊與鐵勾,以前被宰殺的豬隻應該就掛在這個快解體的鐵勾上吧!

It had the rusted iron chain and hook on the ceiling. Slaughtered pigs were hung here in the past, I think.

漫步至西街底,我走下石碇溪谷,沿著溪旁的石板路散步,想像一下昔日商船往來的熱鬧情景。以前舢板船可以沿著景美溪與石碇溪上溯到這裡,商家在此下船卸貨,再送到集順廟前買賣。看著巨石纍纍的石碇溪,實在很難想像當年這裡竟然可以通船。

I walked along the creek on the stone slate road toward the end of the West Street, I could imagine the lively time of the past. The ferries docked here from the Jingmei and Shiding Creeks to load and unload supplies. It’s hard to believe the ferries docked here since the creek was filled with rocks.

走著走著,我發現了這二塊洗衣石板。洗衣板加上水中的倒影,好美,但溪水其實頗髒,不知誰有沒有人在這裡洗衣服就是了。

I found these two laundry stone slates. The reflection of the water looks so pretty. The creek does not look too clean though. I wonder if people would wash clothes here.

在石板路散步時,巧遇了一隻的鴨子,他張嘴叫著模樣實在很可愛!

石碇這個緊鄰著深坑的老街,因深坑的光環始終蓋過石碇,而讓這個蘊藏歷史的老街,受到大多遊客的忽略十分可惜。但我相信只要親自走過一遭,肯定就能感受到這裡迷人的況味。

Here is a cute duck while I was strolling through the stone slate road!

Shiding Old Street is right next to Shenkeng. Because of the famous Shenkeng, Shiding is very easily ignored. However, I still think that if you come here once, you would definitely be attracted. Read More

15 comments:

fufu said...

wow nice pictures :) so vintage =p you capture the everything nice XD last picture with a duck...good lol

MKL said...

Great blog you have here. I love Taiwan, too. Have blogged about it a lot, but what you do is amazing. Great photos and keep on blogging :)

Zhu said...

I like the way you shot this one, quite a contrast with the peaceful district you showed in the previous post. I like urban decay as well, so pretty cool!

The row of red lanterns always look pretty too me.

taiwan-photography-blog.com said...

Nice!

Rafael Lam said...

These acient Diaojiaolou, Skylight-Less houses in Shiding are really unique and well preserved!
Many acient villages in China are very commercial now...
I think this is the atmosphere of an acient village shall be! Very attractive!

kristen and micki said...

@Fufu-ha! I think the duck was taking me to where he/she wanted to go. A very cute duck!

@Zhu-Indeed Shiding is a very peaceful township. A great place to spend a day there!

@Rafael-越少受到人們注意的地方,越能保有當地的況味,只是沒落的村莊想要有所發展,但在發展之際又要保留原味,是很不太容易取得平衡的,很二難!

@Neil & MKL- Thanks!

lechua said...

wow they need such an array of knives for cutting tofu??

kristen and micki said...

@Lechua- ha! Those knives are not for cutting tofu. Those knives are made in the Blacksmith shop, and tofu shop is at a different place, but they are near to each other.

shloke said...

Those iron knifes remind me of Kung Fu Hustle 功夫 :) Another detailed post from Micki! I love how you described East and West Street of Shiding. Beautiful!

lechua said...

ooh the knives are from the blacksmith shoppp.... oopppss

kristen and micki said...

@Mylo-Thanks! This is Kristen's writing, and I am translating! Indeed those knives do look like the ones in the Kung Fu movies. :)

@Lechua- Ha! I make "Oooopppps" all the time! :)

noodles said...

This is a beautiful place! Now I wondering if I should remove jiu fen and keelung from my plans and travel to Shiding instead. If I figured out how to go there.

kristen and micki said...

Thanks! Noodles, Jiufen and keelung have a lot to discover as well. Try to visit all these 3 places if your time is allowed~

ah san said...

Hi, can you provide me the transport details to Shiding from Ximending?
thanks.

kristen and micki said...

Hi, Ah San You can take the MRT from Ximen to Muzha station, and take XinXin bus #666 to Shiding. Hope this helps~

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