June 5, 2010

Black Mountain Villages。Jinguashi, Jiufen

位於山海交會的九份與金瓜石,因背山臨海再加上剛好處於東北季風入口處,這裡經常是氤氳多雨、白霧迷濛的天氣。為了因應潮濕多雨的氣候,山城居民採用方便排水的傾斜式房頂,還特別在屋頂上漆一層柏油,因此高低錯落有致黑壓壓的屋頂成了金九聚落的特色之一。

Located in the coastal and mountainous area and near the entrance of the northeast wind, Jiufen and Jinguashi rain frequently with cloudy weather. Because of the humid and rainy climate, the town residents built houses with tilted roof to facilitate drainage. The roof has been painted with a layer of asphalt which formed a unique scene of the black roofed Jinjiu mountain villages.

金九的黑屋頂正確的名稱叫做「黑油毛氈屋頂」,製作工序有三大步驟,先是在屋頂上釘鋪一層木板,接著鋪上二層方向交錯的油毛氈,最後再刷上柏油,這樣就大功告成了。

The correct name of Jinjiu black roof is “Black Oil Felt Roof”. It involved three steps. First is to nail down a wooden board on the roof, cover with 2 crossed layers oil felt, and finally paint with asphalt which completed the three step process.

油毛氈不僅防風防雨、堅固耐用,還有價格便宜及容易維護等優點,因此才會被山城的居民大量採用。若稍稍注意的話,會發現山城裡的房子,在屋頂的臨海迎風面上,大多築有一道矮牆,這道矮牆的作用是為了保護辛苦鋪設的黑屋頂,以阻擋海風直接吹襲而修築的。

The oil felt is not only water and wind resistant, but also durable, low coast, and easy to maintain. Because of this, it has been widely used by the residents. If we look at the roof closely, we can see a low wall sticking out on the roof of the houses facing the ocean. The function of this low wall is to protect the black roof not to be damaged by the ocean wind directly.

不過,要抵擋這裡風強雨疾的冬、夏兩季,光靠這道矮牆還不足夠,還需要「料風颱」才行。「料」是台灣話綑綁的意思,「風颱」就是颱風之意,而這三個字組在一起,就是把颱風綑綁起來,不讓它作怪肆虐。山城的居民會在房屋的前後擺上四顆大石頭,綁上鋼索後再繞過屋頂固定住以防強風襲擊,料風颱指的就是這樣的避風防颱步驟。

註:此張照片攝於菁桐,因在金九時沒拍到料風颱的照片。

However, this low wall is not strong enough to withstand the strong winds and heavy rain in the winter and summer seasons. It also needs” Liu Phoon Ty”. “Liu” means “Tie Together” and “Phoon Ty” means “Typhoon” in Taiwanese dialect. Three words together mean to tie typhoon together, and not to cause troubles. The residents here hang four large rocks around the roof with the strong wires to withstand the strong winds. “Liu Phoon Ty” is showing this process against the typhoon.

PS: This photo was taken in Ching Tung station. I did not catch this image in Jinjiu.

金瓜石與九份的聚落依山而建,屋舍層層相疊。在地勢與空間的限制下,這裡的房子都趨於矮小且戶戶相連,形成一種相互依存的住宅結構。石階依著坡勢,上下延伸、迂迴曲折的將各坡層的民居連接起來,當地居民無論上工、買菜、做生意買賣、上學或著串門子,就靠著這一道一道、寬窄不一的石階。在這四通八達的一階一坎上下間,空間被連結了起來,人情也隨之暖暖的流動著。

Jinguashi and Jiufen’s houses are built in the mountains. They are adjoining to each other within a limited space. The houses are small, low and next to each other to form an interdependent residential structure. The stone steps on the slope connect each resident. No matter where the residents work, shop, do business, school or visit, they all rely on the stone steps. In between the steps, the space has been connected and filled with warm hearts.

山城的居民大部份會在門前留一塊大大小小的空地平台,大多都面海,若看不到海,則會依坡形地勢做各種延展,這就是這裡的「門口埕」文化。空地的四周有的堆起矮石牆、有的砌上一道紅磚牆,或著是直接用盆栽、花台等,隔出一個屬於每戶的獨立空間。門口埕不僅是吹風賞景、茶餘飯後的休憩場所,更是家人與親友鄰里情感交流的園地,也提供了遊客一個可以歇腿喘息的好地方。

There is a small area in front of the houses facing the ocean. For the ones not facing the ocean, they would also make some kinds of extension. This is the culture of “Men Kou Cheng” (Courtyard). Low stone walls or brick walls were built for the courtyard. Flower pots and plants are also in the yard. “Men Kou Cheng” is a small space for the family and neighbors get together to chat, to rest or to enjoy the scenery. Visitors can also rest in here while passing by.

對初來乍到的遊客來說,山城裡的石階像迷宮一般,紛亂雜蕪的交織著,若沒親自走過,永遠不知道石階將延伸至何處,走到哪個人家大門,會遇到怎樣的門口埕,或者又串連到哪一條斜巷,甚至峰迴路轉後,可以看到什麼樣波瀾壯闊的風景。正因它的不確定性,才金瓜石與九份如此的風格獨俱。

It feels like a maze when walking in the mountain village for the first time visitors. It is very complicated because you would never know where these stone steps would take you. You may walk to one residence’s front door and encounter “Men Kou Cheng”, or you may walk into a small alley with breathtaking scenery. Just because of its uncertainty, Jinguashi and Jiefen have become so unique! Read More

8 comments:

shloke said...

The Black Oil Felt Roofs are pretty interesting - flat, black and oily-like. Not the typical tile-like design.

I didn't expect villagers to rely on low walls and Liu Phoon Ty boulders to protect their roofs from harsh weather elements. Looks like some cheap ingenious way for protection :)

The mountain view is definitely breathtaking. It must be windy all day long! I bet it's a great escapade from the city's hustle and bustle. Hmmmm....I like to have my very own vacation home in Jiufen :)

Cheers!

Zhu said...

Indeed, it looks like a maze of house! The view is great though.

I like the way residents adapted to the weather conditions, this is very smart. The city I'm from in France is very rainy and windy and I wish we had similar tricks ;-)

Rafael Lam said...

I notice these Black Oil Felt Roofs are very important now, thanks for introduce its with your nice pictures...
Jiufen’s houses are really special, I will appreciate and take more pictures if I have a chance to come here again!

1ondoncalling said...

台灣的山地還真多呢?!
住在那種山地的老人,買菜時絕對不可以忘了賣鹽賣油之類的東西啊!
要不然,回到家發現忘了油鹽,可能還會斷氣呢?
你看,氣還沒喘完又生氣的話,就算不斷氣也會高血壓暈倒,半身不遂?

還是住在平地比較幸福哦!還能騎單車呢。

Hapi said...

hello... hapi blogging... have a nice day! just visiting here....

kristen and micki said...

To Mylo- Indeed sometimes the ancient remedies work better than the current techniques. Ha! I really don’t mind living in an old fashion way!
:):)
To Zhu- A small and an old fashion trick can be very impressive! ins't it?

To Rafael- You will definitely shoot some awesome photos there, lots of good stuff can be captured!

To Londoncaller- You are so silly! Ha! I think that’s why people in Taiwan, even the elders stay in shape because they are exercising daily.

@Hapi- Thanks for stopping by..

1ondoncalling said...

還是食物的關係吧?
中華料理還是比較清淡一些呢!?
不過,外食還是多油多鹽多肉。

kristen and micki said...

@Londoncaller- I think it might have been becuase of both- eating healthy and exercising daily!~~

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