Handmade Thin Noodles in Lugang

“Handmade” products are hardly found in the manufacturing world now. The handmade thin noodle has almost been replaced by the machine made. “Handmade” means value. It not only presents the hard work but also brings out the person persistency in keeping the traditional spirit.

We came to Fushing Township, Lugang, visiting Mr. Lin’s noodle place (林記手工麵線). Mr. Lin’s handmade thin noodles are one of the few remaining handmade noodle places in the Fushing Township while rest of them has been replaced by the machine made. They pass this ancient technique from generation to generation. I admire their spirit in keeping the ancient tradition unaffected by the society changes.

We came here in the afternoon while the drying process was almost ended. The whole process starts in the early morning and lasts about 6 hours. Lugang is near the ocean with the nice ocean breeze and plentiful sunshine which is very suitable in drying noodles. Fushing Township used to have more than 10 places in making handmade thin noodles.

Mr. Lin told us that the reason in tying the bottom of the hanging noodles was because the bottom parts of the noodles were thinner than the top due to the hanging. Tying is to prevent the bottom part from being overexposed to the sun. The length of drying is also essential because it affects the texture of the noodles; not over or under dry and maintaining the humidity of the noodles!

Mr. and Mrs Lin were taking the noodles back to the room when we got there. How disappointed were we! Mr. Lin was very humble and invited us to come back the next day early morning if the weather would permit the early process to take place.

We came back around 9:00am the next day. It was a cloudy day and we were not sure if the noodles would be made under that condition or we would have made it here earlier as they started around 5 or 6:00am.

The dough is made with flour, rough salt, and water. It is cut, extruded, kneaded to the round threads afterwards. At the same time, Mr. Lin fills the bamboo baskets by circling the threads. They get sit in the basket for the yeast process.

Tons of baskets filled with threads were ready. Mr. Lin started quickly to wound the threads in an “8” shape direction into a two parallel bamboo poles on the wall. After the wounding process was complete, he immediately sprinkled corn starch on top of the noodles to prevent the stickiness. The noodles were hung again after this process to allow the threads to drop down to the ground level.

Mr. Lin warmly invited us to enter the room and take photos while he was working. We were moving around and trying not to be in his way since he moved so fast. How funny! We were sweating heavily with white flours sticky on the chin, clothes, and cameras! He was surprised that we were sweating, so he kindly turned on the air conditioner for us. We were surprised that the air conditioner was installed in this small work room, and we were touched by his thoughtfulness!

The hanging noodles were ready to be moved to the outside courtyard. Metal frames with holes on each pole were set in the courtyard. Mr. Lin hung the bamboo pole to a frame on one side and started to pull the noodles to the other side. He pulled the noodles in an “up and down” waving motion which made the noodles thin each time he pulled. (The whole process is making the 10cm dough into 0.1cm thin noodles). It was amazing they did not break! This reminds me the Gong-Fu philosophy, “The strength coming from inside that makes it no harsh externally, but flexible internally”

Hundred of the noodles were pulled and hung in the courtyard which created an incredible scene! No wonder this is the photographers’ favorite place.

Mr. and Mrs. Lin were moving so fast in the courtyard, and we were just moving around them to find places to get some shots. The kitty seemed to know not to get in their way too!

Mr. Lin felt the rain dropping! They immediately moved the noodles back to the room. I asked them if I could help, but later I thought that I could have caused more trouble than offering help!

The noodles can be dried by the fans, heater, or in room temperature. It all depends on the dryness level of the noodles.

Each of us bought a few bags home. Each bag is NT$60 (around $2). I think it is an incredible low price for the amount of work they have put in! “Handmade” to me is priceless, and the “spirit” behind really touched me.

Address: No.9, Ln. 129, Fuxing Rd., Fuxing Township, Changhua County.

Telephone: 04-7783133

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