May 22, 2010

Jiufen Old Street

背山面海的九份,與相鄰的金瓜石、水湳洞,同為昔日金礦或煤礦的重要產區,是台灣重要的礦業聚落遺產,目前尚保存著珍貴的採礦遺跡與礦場景觀。九份是台灣前幾大的國際觀光勝地之一,來這裡的國際觀光客又以日本及香港為多數。多拜電影「悲情城市」所賜,讓九份從一個沒落的小山城,一躍變成了人潮湧動的熱門景點。

Jiufen, overlooking the ocean, like the nearby towns Jinguashi and Shuinandong, was a gold mine and major coal production area in Taiwan. These towns were the important coal mining ruins with precious mining relic and coal landscape. Jiufen is one of the tourist places in Taiwan attracting people from Japan and Hong Kong the most. Jiufen has changed itself from a small mountain town to a popular tourist spot because the movie “City of Sadness” was filmed there.

Photo by Tony

遊客口中的九份老街,指的就是「豎崎路」與「基山街」所組成的二個區域。「豎崎路」早期是一條保甲路,做為清兵守備及公部門徵用兵員的道路。它是一條縱向的石階路,是當時九份居民往返港口及民生補給運輸的主要通道。現在的豎崎路沿途林立著無數的茶館、咖啡屋、民宿及各式藝品店,十分熱鬧。

The Jiufen Old Street usually refers to the areas of Shuqi Road and Jishan Street. Shiqui Road was the baojia Road which was used by the troops during the Qing Dynasty for garrison purposes. It was a stone paved road which was the major gateway for the local residents to reach to the port for their living supplies. Now Shiqui Road is filled with a variety of tea houses, coffee shots, lodgings, and craft stores.

來到豎崎路肯定不要錯過的,就是找一間茶館邊泡茶邊賞景,好好渡過悠閒的時光。

註:不過假日人太多,若能平日來到九份,才比較能感受到那份悠閒。

Come to Shuqi Road. You have to spend time in a tea house by drinking a couple of good tea while enjoying the scenery.

PS: It is very crowded during weekends. It’s better to come here during weekdays in order to relax.

「基山街」則是昔日九份最重要的商業街,當年民生用品、餐廳飲食及消費娛樂,所有的店鋪都匯集在這裡,入夜後依舊燈火通明,人潮川流不息。由於九份多雨,街道兩旁的商家遂搭起頂棚蔽雨,形成幽黯的巷弄,而有了「暗街仔」之稱。

Jishan Street was the major business street in Jiufen where grocery stores, restaurants and entertainment places were located. The nightlife attracts crowds. Due to the frequent rains in Jiufen, the stores on the street built the rain canopy outside, which formed a faint alley, it is also known as “Dark Alley”.

Photo by Tony

基山街現今仍然是九份最熱鬧的街道,兩旁的小吃店交錯林立,有草仔粿、芋仔粿、紅槽肉圓及冷熱芋圓等等,到處充斥著各種美味小吃。吃美食嚐美味,幾乎是每個遊客到九份必做的事。

Jishan Street is still the liveliest street now. Lots of local snacks are available, such as Glutinous Rice Cake, Taro Glutinous Rice Cake, Hongzao (Oxo Cubes) Meatball, and cold or hot Taro Rice Balls…etc. The street is filled with delicious snacks. Almost every tourist who comes to Jiufen would taste all those above.

Photo by PYOCO

「九份芋圓」是在無心插柳的情況下,意外成了九份地方小吃的代名詞。創始人最初只是做給自家人吃,因受好評,才開始做起生意,沒想到這一做,就讓九份芋圓驚豔全台。這裡的芋頭原料大多來自台中大甲,為了要維持芋圓的Q度,每一道工序都馬虎不得。雖然目前全台都吃的到九份芋圓,但比不及當地的香氣與嚼勁哦!

Jiufen Taro Rice Ball has become a symbol of Jiufen local snack by accident. Founder of the Taro Rice Ball was making them for the family. Due to good feedbacks, he started to sell them. From there, Jiufen Taro Rice Ball became popular in Taiwan. The taro material comes from Tachia Taichung. In order to maintain the texture of taro, every process needs to be examined carefully. Although now we can eat Jiufen Taro Rice Ball all over in Taiwan, they still do not have the same flavor and texture as those of the local Jiufen.

Photo by Tony

「紅糟肉圓」也是另一項九份名產的代表。內餡是天然紅糟醃漬的上好新鮮豬腿肉,配上鮮嫩的竹筍絲,蒸熟後顆顆看起來晶瑩剔透、飽滿紮實,好吃的不得了。再配上一碗魚丸湯、貢丸湯,那可真是一大享受。

Hongzao (Oxo Cubes) Meatball is another popular local snack in Jiufen. The stuffed meatball is made with pork salted with Hongzao. It is steamed with fresh bamboo shoot threads. The meatball looks so clear and full. It tastes so good. Try to enjoy it together with a bowl of fish ball soup or pork ball soup.

九份的房子依著山勢而建,基山街與其他平行的道路,主要靠著豎崎路串連,為了節省時間與通行的便利,在這兩條平行街道中,還有數條陡梯小巷銜接著,這些小徑穿梭在房子的前門後廳,因此被稱之為「穿屋巷」。

The houses in Jiufen were built on the hills. There are many small alleys connected to the paralleled Jishan and Shiqui Streets in order to save time for the residents to walk from one street to another. These small alleys in the front or the back of the house are named “Penetrating House Alley”.

穿屋巷有的十分狹窄,無法容人錯身,有的直陡急下、迂迴曲折,還有的相當昏暗,伸手不見五指,可以說是十分的特別。很有意思的是,有時候走著走著,就不小心穿過別人家的大廳或房門口。

“Penetrating House Alley” can be very narrow which only fits one person; it can be very steep and tortuous; it can also be very pitch dark. They are very unique. It is very interesting that you may be walking through someone’s living room or gate without noticing it.

Photo by Tony

傍晚,家家戶戶點起了燈火,此時是九份展現另一風情的時刻。九份有不少民宿可供住宿,許多遊客喜歡在這裡住上一間,感受一下夜晚的九份。

After the dusk, the lights are up. This is the most beautiful moment of Jiufen. There are many places available for lodging. Many tourists like to stay overnight to enjoy the evening atmosphere here.

我承認,九份的商業氣息太過濃重,且假日時人擠人的盛況,實在讓人感到害怕,但觀光客都只停留在九份老街而已。其實,九份還很多地方值得走訪,而鄰近的金瓜石及水湳洞也是十分美麗的地方,讓我再慢慢與大家分享吧!

I agree that Jiufen is bit too commercialized. It is also too crowded during weekends, which scares me. However, most of the tourists stay in the Jiufen Old Street. In fact, the nearby Jinguashi, Shuinandong townships are also beautiful. Let me share them with you all later!

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16 comments:

dennis said...

i had read about jeo-fern a few times now on different blogs and seen many pictures of it, i must say the place looks really really interesting, definitely a place i must visit! not to mention that im a big fan of taro and sweet potato balls yummm~~~ which i must mention that it's a bit mean of u to post a picture of it, coz i cant stop drooling >_< great post thank you =)

Rafael Lam said...

I only went to Taiwan two times but I also went to Jiufen two times,
because I really like here, is so special
I've walking around those small alleys from the top of the hill to the bottom,
besides the shops, the old resident houses are really interesting!
I still remember a nice tea house and restaurants there!

shloke said...

Very interesting! Four things that caught my attention:

1) Jiufen Taro Rice Ball (It looks like 汤圆)
2) Yummylicious Hongzao Meatballs (GULP!)
3) Penetrating House Alley (Kind of creepy and dangerous...especially during earthquakes)
4) Night view (Fabulous!!!)

Taiwan ROCKS!

1ondoncalling said...

九份還真特別唷!
這種忽高忽低的山地走起來也蠻吃力的,不過有吃到那麼好吃芋圓、肉圓、魚丸湯也算值得。
山底下有面湖,應該會更美麗吧?有山有水好風光!

在馬來西亞那些被遺棄的採礦場,有很多都變成礦湖。

Zhu said...

I absolutely love these narrow streets, and yes, even if they are crowded. There is something very comforting in living in such a small place and be surrounded by people all the time. Although I'm not sure I'd walk the tiny path when it's pitch-dark :-D

The night view is beautiful!

kristen and micki said...

@Dennis- Ha! Sorry for the drooling~~ ;o) Don’t forget to visit Jiufen when you come!

@Rafael- Jiufen must be very special to you! I am so glad that you had a great time there.

@ Mylo- Impressive! you are so good at summarizing. You must be a very organized person!

@Londoncaller- Jiufen has a great ocean view! Still 有山有水唷 :) I would like to see the 礦湖 in Malaysia!

@Zhu- People in Taiwan are very friendly and hospitality. Be around with them indeed is another enjoyment. Living in a small town is my style too~~ :):)

Todd said...

Lovely photos! Jiufen has a very special charm to it. I've been there twice and am already looking forward to a future visit.

kristen and micki said...

Thanks Todd! Indeed Jiufen does have an irresistible charm!

1ondoncalling said...

Ha ha... The sea is much better than the lake!
There's a famous ex-mining lake in Malaysia called Tasik Biru (lit Blue Lake).

If you're interested, you can have follow the link below (from Flikr):
hxxp://www.flickr.com/search/?q=Tasik+biru&s=int

kristen and micki said...

Hi, Londoncaller Thanks for the flickr pictures. What a beautiful blue lake! Amazing color! It's hard to believe it was an mining area..

Fili said...

Great post, and the photos are terrific.
I don't think it's overcommercialized, I liked the general atmosphere there and I think it still has a lot of charm.
A nice little place to visit.

(Linked)

kristen and micki said...

@Fili- Thanks! Jiufen is such a nice place, but I think it attracts too many tourists which may affect the tourism quality. Weekdays in Jiufen are much better. I personally prefer going to Jinguashi!:)

Dave said...

I'll always remember our time at Jiufen old street.

We were moving and exploring the stairs and alleys when a phrase from one of my favourite movies flashed into mind:

"C'os people do live there!"

Taking snapshots at the start of the old street, we descended quickly behind a gate down an alley. A lady resident appeared and cautioned us against moving deeper - which we were not!

That was apparently local property - not open for tourists haha! Oops sorry! ;-)

kristen and micki said...

@ Dave-You had that experience too~~ Thanks for sharing! I am glad that you had a great time there!

France Abbeys said...

I have to confess that I've never heard about Jiufen, but I'm so glad that I know about it now! I will spend a few weeks in Taiwan this summer, and I really want to see this lovely little town!

kristen and micki said...

Thanks! France Abbeys, wishing you a great time in this lovely town for the upcoming summer trip!

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