April 11, 2010

Ching Tung Station。Ping Si Branch

平溪支線最古意的車站要屬菁桐站了,這個將近有八十幾年歷史的車站,至今還保留著當初建造時的風貌。佈滿苔蘚的黑瓦屋簷,其上、下雙層結構形成了美麗多重屋頂,而白色的木牆,看起來相當古樸典雅,兩者迷人的組合,讓這個古老的日式木造站房,成了平溪支線裡最美麗的風景。

The loveliest station in Ping Si Branch is the Ching Tung Station. For nearly an 80 year history, Ching Tung Station has kept its original appearance as it was built. The black tiles roof is covered with moss. The upper and lower multi-layer structures form a beautiful roof. The combination of the simple and elegant white wooded walls with the roof becomes very charming. This ancient Japanese wooden station has turned into the most beautiful scenery for Ping Si Branch.

站內沿牆架起的簡易木條長椅,還有那木製欄杆剪票口,依舊保持著當年的面貌。遊客們到了菁桐站,總喜歡在長椅上坐著休息,而不管搭不搭火車,都至少要穿過一次剪票口,似乎這麼一做,就能回到了舊時光。

The simple wooden bench and wooden railing ticket gate has the original look. Visitors would like to rest on the benches and pass the ticket gate to feel the old good time regardless whether they are here to take the train or not when they come to Ching Tung Station.

卸煤櫃, Coal’s Unloading Cabinet

卸煤櫃的底部, The bottom of the Coal’s Unloading Cabinet

菁桐昔日是臺陽煤礦最大的採煤礦區。這個曾經繁榮一時的礦業聚落,在封坑停採後便迅速沒落,但這遺留了不少採礦遺跡及礦業文物,如車站不遠處的卸煤櫃及石底煤礦遺址等等。站在月台就可以看到對面聳立著高大的降煤櫃,這條降煤櫃的長度可是台灣之冠哦!當年石底煤礦即由此裝載至火車貨櫃裡,這樣特有的鐵道景觀,是早年鐵道與產業共生的歷史見證。

Ching Tung was used to be the largest mining area for Tai Yang Coal. It was once a thriving mining village. After the closure, as the mining demand rapidly declines, it left lots of mining and mining heritage monuments, such as the Coal’s Unloading Cabinet and the Shi De Coal Ruins, etc. While standing on the platform, you can see the tall Coal’s Unloading Cabinet which is the tallest Coal Cabinet in Taiwan. The Shi De Coal was loaded to the train at this station. This special scenery is the witness for the railway and industrial symbiosis of the history.

循著車站附近石階步道拾級而上,沒多久就可以看到一幢尖型屋脊的紅磚建築,這幢就是素有菁桐地標之稱的選洗煤場。開採出來的煤礦,經由台車運送至翻車間降煤,再經過篩選、搬運及水洗的過程,分離出不同大小比重的煤塊或煤屑後,再加以分類集中運出。這幢選洗煤場空間構造高低錯落、複雜特殊,還獲選為台灣歷史建築百景。

Following the stone step trail up near the train station for not too long, you would see a spike roof red brick building, which is the coal washing field as the landmark for Ching Tung. After the coal was mined, it was transported by car to here to be subdued. After filtering, handling and washing process, the different sizes of the coal would be produced and shipped after the classification process. This complex, high and low structure coal washing field has become a historical architecture scene in Taiwan.

循著台階繼續往上走,就可以抵達石底大斜坑遺址。石底大斜坑是全台開採最久、面積最深且產量最為豐富的礦坑,是平溪線規模最大的煤礦遺址。

Following the stone steps, you would arrive at the Shi De Slanting Pit ruin site. The Shi De slanting Pit is the oldest, deepest and richest mines production and it is also the largest mine ruin in Ping Si Branch.

石底大斜坑是將周遭幾個的坑口貫通,以便將各坑挖掘的煤炭集中運出,連結選洗煤場,簡化了原有的坑外搬運系統。除了坑口外,在這片高地上,還可以看到昔日的事務所、電車修理室、工料倉庫、礦工宿舍、浴室、台車道及翻車台等等。雖然大多的建築都頹圮敗壞,但這些遺留下來的遺跡,讓人不難想像當年採礦全盛時期的繁榮景象。

The Shi De Slanting Pit was made by connecting several pits around in order to ship the coal that was mined from each pit. Connected with the Coal Washing Field, the shipping system was made to simplify the process. Beside the pit, we can also see the old office, the carts repair room, warehouse, miners dormitory, bathroom, cart platform, and overturned platform, etc. Although most of the buildings were destroyed and corrupted, the legacy remains. You can imagine the peak time of the mining industry.

逛完了石底大斜坑遺址,若對菁桐礦業還想要有更深刻的認識,可以至車站旁的「菁桐礦業生活館」走走。菁桐礦業生活館是利用閒置廢棄的台鐵員工宿舍改建而成,館內紀錄著菁桐聚落居民原有的生活方式與礦業文化記憶,讓人們追憶與了解菁桐百年盛世的過往,並與菁桐的未來有所連結。這是一個保存煤礦產業文化、結合觀光資源,與展示地方藝文的在地文化館。

If you would like to know more about the Ching Tung Mining, you can visit the “Ching Tong Mining Life Museum” near the train station. This museum was renovated from an abandoned railway staff dormitory. It records Ching Tung villagers’ life style and mining culture history to connect the past and future of Ching Tung. This is a cultural museum that combines the local mining industry with its tourism resources.

簡單的水泥樓房與典雅的格子木窗,還有外牆上那爬滿的藤蔓植物,讓整幢建築充滿著迷人的氛圍,是拍攝人像與婚紗攝影的熱門之地。

The simple concrete building with wooden frame and climbing plants on the external walls makes it a popular place for wedding photography.

緊鄰著車站,約莫一百多公尺長的菁桐老街,幾十年來從未拓寬,街旁兩排民房,因鐵道觀光的熱潮與懷舊風的興起,而變成了一間間商店、小吃店及特色紀念品店。遊客在這裡可以買到許多具有特色的紀念品,如車票明信片、木製明信片、小天燈裝飾,還有許多具有創意的芒草編、竹編、T恤等工藝紀念品。

Near the station, less than 100-meter long Ching Tung Old Street has kept its original size. The houses by the streets become snack stores and local taste souvenirs stores to cater to the tourists. The tourists buy local souvenirs, such as, ticket postcard, wooden postcard, and small sky lantern ornaments, along with the creative grass weaving products, T-shirts and art crafts.

當年運煤台車的小火車頭上掛滿了遊客們留下的許願竹筒,上面寫滿了眾人的祝福與願望,意外成為了菁桐老街的特色之一。

The old coal small engine hangs lots of Wishing Bamboo Tubes. The tourists write their wishes and blessings on the tubes which have become a unique characteristic on the Ching Tung Old Street.

除此之外,來到老街可千萬不能錯過菁桐著名的古早味小吃-雞捲。炸的香酥,卻不會油膩的雞捲,卻跟雞肉一點關係也沒有。它其實是以芋泥與豬肉為主要內餡。據說,早期逢年過節時,居民會準備許多食材拜拜宴客,廚師們¬將多餘的食材綜合捲起來油炸,後來演變成一道可口的小吃。雞捲就是由台語發音而來,有多出來一道菜的意思哦!

Beside all these, don’t miss the famous Ching Tung old time taste snack- "Chicken Rolls". The Chicken Roll is crispy but not greasy at all, and it is not made with chicken. It is made with taro paste and pork. It was said that residents here were wrapping the leftover food and deep frying them for worshipping. Since then, it has become a delicious snack. Chicken Roll (Ge Gen) is how it is pronounced by the Taiwanese dialect, which means an extra dish!

This is the last post of the Ping Si Branch series. Thanks for following the series, and hope you find all of the stations interesting, beneficial, and enjoyable!

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12 comments:

1ondoncalling said...

I see you're also quite into old buildings and ruins. ;-)
You must come to Britain and see some of its ruined abbeys between Scotland and England. Really fascinating!

Ching Tung Station reminded me of my primary school in Malaysia!
But it was demolished when I was in Standard 4 to make new school buildings.

dennis said...

love the picture of the 3 mailboxes and the mailman, very cute :) and feels so japanese ^^

Rafael Lam said...

Wow! Ching Tung is a spectacular place! I must stop in this station if I visit Nothern Taiwan!
Your captures are very beautiful, I like the pictures of the window and the bicylce! ^.^

D said...

Nice description. Ching Tung is a neat place and those "Chicken Rolls" (ji juan) are really good. Taking that Pingxi railway is fun too -- just 70 NT or so for a ticket good for the whole day!

Zhu said...

Indeed, I can easily imagine this place bustling with people!

I like the fact that the chicken rolls are made with pork :-p

And the wishing bamboo tubes are really cool. In HK, a similar things exists: the wishing tree. People throw oranges in the tree, to which they attached their wish. If the orange get caught in the branches of the huge tree, you wish will come true!

kristen and micki said...

@Londoncaller- Indeed European countries have rich culture and heritage, would love to go there again!

@Dennis, Rafael and D- Taking the Ping Si train can capture lots of unique and original look of the small towns in Northern Taiwan. Each station has a different characteristic and scenery. Waterfalls, potholes, coal ruins, bomb shelter, ancient houses and bridges, old mailbox, and observing the “Bronze Medal” exchange system on the platform are all the highlights of the Ping Si trip.

@Zhu- I love those bamboo tubes! Aren’t they cute? :):) I read and saw the pictures of throwing oranges in the wishing tree from Lechua’s blog. I thought that was an interesting and unique custom!

1ondoncalling said...

Do you also have 炸五香 in Taiwan?
One of our 炸五香 in Malaysia is quite similar to your 雞捲!
It's quite popular in Malaysia. I used to have it with 豬腸粉 in sweet sauce!!

fufu said...

i wanna dozen of chicken rolls :) hihhi the station there looks similar to those in the japanese rural area :) so nostalgic

kristen and micki said...

@Londoncaller- 炸五香是有點類似雞捲...只是食材不太一樣. They taste so good with the sweet sauce~~Yummy!

@Fufu- This station definitely has the nostalgic feeling! Those Chicken Rolls make me hungry too!

1ondoncalling said...

It's so cool that we share something in common!
我想可能是炸五香源之福建的關係吧?

lechua said...

wow u've covered ALLLL the stations on this line!

kristen and micki said...

@Lechua- Thanks for riding Ping Si Line with us!

@Londoncaller- yeap!:)

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