December 21, 2009

Let’s go hunting with Ashong in Lun Pi tribe

位於蘭陽溪北岸的崙埤部落,曾是一池美麗的埤塘,逐漸乾涸後才慢慢形成現今的泰雅聚落。部落附近的哈盆古道蘊藏了豐富的動植物資源,自古便是當地族人的獵場,他們世代在此狩獵、生活,與自然和平共生。來到崙埤部落,可以跟著獵人Ashong的腳步深入傳統獵徑,辨認動物足跡、學習野外生活,一探泰雅獵人的狩獵智慧。

Located on the north shore of Lan-Yan river, Lun Pi tribe area used to be a beautiful pond. After the pond dried up, it became the settlement for Atayal’s. In the vicinity of the tribe, Hapen Trail deposits rich flora and fauna and was also the hunting field for the tribe since ancient time. They hunt; live peacefully with the Mother Nature. In Lun Pi tribe, we followed the footstep of Ashong to explore the hunting trail, identify animal tracks, learn the wild life, and discover the hunting wisdom of Atayal’s.

此行除了體驗泰雅狩獵文化與了解獵人生態智慧外,走訪了哈盆古道上國寶級的原始湖泊崙埤池,了解濕地生態也是主要目的之一。

In addition to experience the Atayal hunters’ hunting culture and understand the ecological wisdom, we went to the Hu Po Lun on the Hapen Trail to understand the wetland ecology, which was also the main purpose of this trip.

抵達崙埤部落後,我們在Ashong的代領下,與小黑狗一塊跳上了貨車。從這裡到登山口的道路相當蜿蜒巔簸,大夥同時要努力維持平衡,又要小心橫生枝葉的襲擊,可以說是十分的「刺激」。

After we arrived at Lun Pi tribe, led by Ashong, we jumped into a truck with a small black dog. From here to the entrance of the mountain, the road was quite a bit bumpy. We all needed to maintain balance and watch out for the branches attack. It was very “exciting”!

每一個獵人都會擁有一個以上的獵犬,而大多獵犬都是台灣黑狗。Ashong的黑狗一路上則緊跟著卡車後頭跑,卡車的速度時快時慢,不管多慢,他永遠都不會超過卡車,是一隻有教養的好狗。更可愛的是,路上有大大小小的泥水灘,他邊努力跑邊同時也順便做一下泥水spa,真是笑壞大夥了。

Every hunter owns at least one hunting dog and it is usually a black dog. Ashong’s black dog followed the truck. No matter how fast or slow the truck was, the black dog had never passed the truck. He was such a well disciplined dog. It was so interesting seeing the black dog doing the muddy spa in every muddy water we passed by. We had a good laugh.

從登山口步行一小段抵達三叉口後,在這裡要舉行傳統的入山儀式。Ashong收起方才一派輕鬆的笑容,誠敬的端起米酒,閉著眼用母語與祖靈溝通,告知此行目地與請祖靈庇佑此行順利平安。接著,向祖靈敬酒並啜飲一口後,大夥也輪流啜飲,不喝酒的人也可以用手指沾酒再輕灑地面。

After we passed through the mountain entrance, a ceremony was held for entering the mountain at the intersection. Ashong put away his smile, held the millet wine cup with his eyes closed, communicated with ancestors with his native language, wishing a safe trip from the blessing of the ancestors. He tossed to the ancestral spirits with one sip. We all took turns to have a sip. The ones who did not drink could sprinkle the wine on the ground with fingers.

步行在生機盎然、綠蔭遮天的原始山徑,雖然陡上陡下耗費不少氣力,但仍讓人覺得十分舒服。

Walking in the lively and shrouded tree mountain trail, we were exhausted, but we still found it very comfortable.

沿途Ashong教大家觀察獸跡、聽聲辨認動物。這個刨痕是鼬獾抓的地洞、那個地窪是山豬玩過的痕跡,小小凹痕形狀的足跡則是山羌的腳印,還有什麼動物的排遺,遠處的山羌叫聲是公是母,他都一清二楚。跟著有經驗的獵人入山,感官似乎都活躍起來了。

Ashong was showing us how to observe the footprints of animals, and identify them by their sounds. This mark was left by a ferret badger, and that hole was made by a mountain swine. The small dent was the footprints of a Muntiacus reevesi. Whether the waste was from the animal or whether the sound was from a female or a male Muntiacus reevesi’s, Ashong knows all the answers. Following him to hunt, my senses seemed to act up as well.

一路上,Ahsong還介紹各種植物的妙用,哪些植物有毒千萬碰不得,哪些又可以採集做為果腹的食物,受傷了可以用什麼植物減輕症狀,口渴了又該如何處理……說著說著,他用隨身的獵刀取下一截黃藤,「獵人上山不帶水的,口渴喝這個就好。」,看似乾乾的枝條竟涓涓流出了汁液,接過杯子,啜飲了一小口,沒想到黃藤的汁液竟如此清甜。大自然就像一個天然的超級市場,難怪Ahsong只要一把刀、一包米、一包鹽,就可以在山上生活個把月。

Ahsong was also telling us the function of each plant. Which ones can’t be touched because of the poisonous, which ones can be eaten, which ones can alleviate the symptoms after the injury, and how to release the thirsty… After all these, he then cut off a yellow vine. He said “Hunter does not bring water with him. Drink this instead!” The juice came out from the yellow vine. It tasted unbelievably sweet and fresh after a sip. Mother Nature is just like a natural supermarket. No wonder as long as Ahsong has a knife, a bag of rice, and salt, he can live inside the mountain for a couple months.

順著陡降坡一路下行,還未見到崙埤池的蹤影,就聽到此起彼落的蛙鳴聲,心也益發興奮起來了。沒多久,終於見到了這個隱身於山林裡的崙埤池。

Following the slope all the way down, I did not see the Lun Pi pond, but heard lots of frog sounds. I was getting excited. Not for too long, I finally saw the hidden Lun Pi pond.

崙埤池四周平坦,有著各式各樣的水生植物,如水毛花、東亞黑三稜及穀精草等。

The Lun Pi pond is surrounded with flat area. It contains a variety of water plants.

這裡蛙鳴此起彼落,蜻蜓、豆娘成群飛舞,如果幸運的話,還可以在此見到戲水的小雁鴨呢!

With the continuous sound of frogs and dancing of dragonflies and damselflies, you could also see the wild geese duck if you are lucky!

崙埤池的湖面,覆蓋了滿滿小巧可愛、外型橢圓的浮葉植株,這是瀕危的稀有植物-蓴菜。

The Lun Pi pond is covered by a small oval shape floating plant which is one of the rare and endangered plants - Brasenia Schreberi.

蓴菜的背葉及嫩莖上,會分泌一種膠質,看起來像就像是黏覆著晶亮的果凍一般。據報導,蓴菜不僅可以治熱疽、降火氣,還有抑制癌細胞的功效,有很高的藥用價值。崙埤池全台僅有的二處蓴菜的天然生育地之一,因此備受國內植物界的重視。

On the back and stem of the Brasenia Schreberi, a shining jell grows and looks like a jelly. It was reported that Brasenia Schreberi can reduce heat, release anger, and inhibit the growth of cancer cells. It has a pretty high medical value. Lun Pi pond is one of the two places in Taiwan growing Brasenia Schreberi and has generated lots of attention.

在崙埤池悠晃了一個小時後,大夥便下山用餐。我們的中餐是在「三個伊娜的店」享用的,涼拌山蘇、炒山豬肉刈包、黃金豆腐、馬告排骨、刺蔥雞肉…..每一道都相當的美味好吃,專程來此享用一餐,都非常的值得。

After an hour at the pond, we came back for lunch. We had our meals at “Three Ina Shop”. Shan Shu salad, fried pork with bun, golden tofu, rib, and green onion chicken all were delicious. It was a worthwhile experience.

吃完了午餐,接下來是參觀Ashong的獵人工作室。Ashong的工作室是用自家屋子後方與擋土牆的空間搭建起來的,十分簡陋狹小,但這並無損他想分享狩獵文化的心意。

We now visited Ashong’s work studio. The studio was built by retaining walls in his backyard and is very simple and small, but it does not affect his desire in sharing his hunting culture.

六年級生的Ashong放棄高薪的工作,返鄉專職於不穩定的嚮導工作,為的就是部落狩獵文化的傳承。從小跟著父親到山上打獵的Ashong,有著紮實的狩獵技能與山野知識,是目前難得的中生代獵人。

Ashong at the age of mid 30s gave up a higher pay job and returned to the mountain to be a guide in order to continue the tribal hunting culture. He started hunting with his father in his childhood years. Now he has a solid foundation of hunting skills and knowledge. He is such a good candidate for being a hunter for his age.

工作室內有著各種狩獵用具,如弓、箭、矛、木槍、魚叉、魚籠等,Asong一一為大家仔細解說各種獵具的使用方式與功能。箭尖又有分單支、雙叉頭及三叉頭等,依捕獵的對象使用不同的箭。

There is a variety of hunting weapons, such as bows, arrows, spears, wooden guns, harpoons, fish cages, etc. Asong explained the details of each weapon’s function and handling method. The arrowhead has single, double and triple arrow heads. Each animal is hunted by a different arrow head.

這個傳統木槍看起來很沒殺傷力,經Ashong的說明與示範後,才知木槍還真是不簡單。不過,使用木槍須申請「槍牌」,當然Ashong是合法的「槍枝」擁有者。

The traditional wooden gun did not look lethal. However, it was not what I thought, after Ashong explained and demonstrated. A license is needed by using the wooden gun. Of course, Ashong is legal to own his gun.

除了獵具外,還有獸皮衣、黃藤背簍、竹編容器、煙斗及煙袋等日常用品。照片中用獸皮製成的披風,是獵人在上山打獵時的雨衣,穿的時候是毛面朝內可保暖,而外皮有防雨作用。在獵寮睡覺時,也可鋪在地上或蓋在身上當作被子,十分好用。

In addition to the hunting weapons, there are animal leather, yellow rattan basket carry-on, bamboo containers, pipe, and other daily necessities in his studio. In the photo a cloak is shown and was made by the animal skin which was his raincoat. It can keep warm and is also water resistant. It can also become a sleeping bag. It is very easy to use.

除了解說獵具用途,Ashong也分享了許多傳統獵人在狩獵時的原則,打獵不是貪心的殺戮,他們必須嚴守許多規則,顧及生態的平衡,並以尊敬、感恩及謙卑的心來面對大自然。其實,不管哪一族的原住民,都有著強烈的土地倫理與自然共生的概念,是相當值得我們學習的。

Ashong also shared with us the hunting principles. Hunter can’t be greedy. They have to follow the rules to keep eco-balanced and respect our Mother Nature. In fact, no matter which tribes of indigenous people, they all have a strong land ethic and natural harmony concept. We all need to learn from them.

Ashong-[泰雅獵人工作室]

http://tayanashong.blogspot.com/

0960-147410

"Three Ina Shop"-[三個伊娜的店]

03-9802162

Yilan County, Da Tuing Township, Lun Pi Village, Cao Yang Lane, #11

宜蘭縣大同鄉崙埤村朝陽巷11號 Read More

3 comments:

1ondoncalling said...

Technically, that's a damselfly (豆娘).
Dragonfly is 蜻蜓. ;)
失禮了...

我小的時候,有和家人到山野打獵的經驗。
獵物通常都是山豬。
不過,山豬肉不好吃,太結實了。

kritsten and micki said...

Ha! actually there are two kinds- damselfly and dragonfly. I skipped the 豆娘. Thanks!
You were a kid hunter before, so cool!

Anonymous said...

thanks for share....

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