Wandering in Confucius Temple

During a Christmas party, a lovely couple shared with me about the impression of their first time visiting Taiwan during summer last year. They both said that teachers in Taiwan “are placed in the highest level”. I was so pleased to hear this since I grew up in an educators’ family in Taiwan. This very simple comment of theirs would be a good start for this post to share a bit of background information of the Confucius Temple in Tainan. Confucius is the greatest educator in ancient China and his teaching has influenced many Asian cultures.

It was a pleasant and quiet weekday afternoon when we visited this beautiful ancient architecture in Tainan. There were not many people in the temple. We felt very relaxed and would like to spend time in reading in this environment. This temple was built in 1665 and is the oldest Confucius Temple in Taiwan. From then on, Confucianism has gradually spread island wide. The temple served as a center for education and culture. It also became the first class historical site on December 28, 1983 and a famous tourist destination.

Let me show you around based on the tourist map.

Two places in the Tainan Confucius Temple are named with the word “Pan” (泮). “Pan Gao” (泮宮) Stone Arch (Stone Arch of Higher Learning Institution Arch) is in the east and ‘Pan Pond’ (泮池) in the south. “Pan Gao Stone Arch” is the school for princes. In the past, after the Pan Gao Arch, it was the territory of the Confucius Temple. “Pan Pond” is a semi-circular water pool outside. It used to be a gathering place on campus to honor Confucius and other scholars while conducting ceremonial rituals.

There are 3 places using the name “Ta Cheng” ( 大成): East Ta Cheng Arch (東大成坊) ,West Ta Cheng Arch (西大成坊) and Ta Cheng Palace (大成殿). The East Ta Cheng Arch is the main entrance of the temple (picture on the left), and the West Ta Cheng Arch the exit.(picture on the right). The East Ta Cheng Arch is the landmark of the temple, representing the origins of Taiwan’s education. It has the Chinese characters of “The first academy of Taiwan” on the top of the Arch. In the past, people were required to get off from their horses in order to go through the Arch to show their respect to Confucius.

In the past, all the students needed to go through two access gates to enter the Ta Cheng palace where the center of the temple is located. On the east side of gate named Li Gate (禮門), and the west Yi Path (義路). Li, Yi are the main disciplines of the Confucianism. There used to be a wall connected to Ta Cheng Palace, so there were keys needed for these two gates. Now only the gates still remain and the wall has deteriorated.

Ta Cheng Palace (大成殿) is the tallest building in the middle level representing the highest respect. This is also the place where the Confucius Ceremony is held on September 28 yearly on the birthday of Confucius. This is also an official holiday for Teachers in Taiwan. The roots of Confucius Ceremony can be traced back to Zhou dynasty. Inside the Ta Cheng Palace, there are shrines, ritual implements, musical instrument storeroom, and books storeroom… etc.

The stone lion is carved in granite which decorates the railings of the Hall for the Great Achievement. The bells around the neck represent the good luck and restraint.

The head of the sea dragon is the draining pipe when the rain falls. It will appear as if the sea dragon is spewing forth water from its mouth. The head of the sea dragon symbolizes the first honorable rank in examinations.

Gorgeous and vivid colored wood sculptures can be seen on the edge or top of the roof.

To show the respect to the greatest teacher Confucius, emperors from the imperial dynasties as well as the present time presidents have submitted plaques with their own hand writings which are displayed in the hall.

Unlike other red brick walls, the Entrance for Morality Training (入德之門) is made with the white walls with three stone framed doors. The center door is larger than the side doors. The Entrance for Morality Training is the symbolic entrance to the Minglun Hall (明倫堂).

The Hall of Edification is also known as Minglun Hall (明倫堂). Beautiful Chinese calligraphy on the walls can be seen once you enter the Hall. It describes the discipline philosophy and the relationship among person, family, and nation. This text is from the “Four Books” of Confucius.

A 3- story pavilion is next to the Minglun Hall that is the Pavilion for Literature Deity (Wen Chang Pavilion, 文昌閣). Each story is built in a different shape: the first floor the square shape, the second floor the round shape, and the third floor the octagon shape. In the past, before taking the civil service examination, many scholars came to burn incense and prayed in front of the pavilion for a good luck.

The red color is the symbol of elegance since the Zhou dynasty. That is why all the walls were built with red walls.

It is very interesting in knowing a bit of information for each architecture piece in the temple. As you can see now, they are all related to school disciplines, moral standards, and respect to educators. That is why teachers are highly respected in most of the Asian cultures. By the time we left the temple, I felt so proud that I was raised in an educators’ family! Read More

Let’s go hunting with Ashong in Lun Pi tribe

位於蘭陽溪北岸的崙埤部落，曾是一池美麗的埤塘，逐漸乾涸後才慢慢形成現今的泰雅聚落。部落附近的哈盆古道蘊藏了豐富的動植物資源，自古便是當地族人的獵場，他們世代在此狩獵、生活，與自然和平共生。來到崙埤部落，可以跟著獵人Ashong的腳步深入傳統獵徑，辨認動物足跡、學習野外生活，一探泰雅獵人的狩獵智慧。

Located on the north shore of Lan-Yan river, Lun Pi tribe area used to be a beautiful pond. After the pond dried up, it became the settlement for Atayal’s. In the vicinity of the tribe, Hapen Trail deposits rich flora and fauna and was also the hunting field for the tribe since ancient time. They hunt; live peacefully with the Mother Nature. In Lun Pi tribe, we followed the footstep of Ashong to explore the hunting trail, identify animal tracks, learn the wild life, and discover the hunting wisdom of Atayal’s.

此行除了體驗泰雅狩獵文化與了解獵人生態智慧外，走訪了哈盆古道上國寶級的原始湖泊崙埤池，了解濕地生態也是主要目的之一。

In addition to experience the Atayal hunters’ hunting culture and understand the ecological wisdom, we went to the Hu Po Lun on the Hapen Trail to understand the wetland ecology, which was also the main purpose of this trip.

抵達崙埤部落後，我們在Ashong的代領下，與小黑狗一塊跳上了貨車。從這裡到登山口的道路相當蜿蜒巔簸，大夥同時要努力維持平衡，又要小心橫生枝葉的襲擊，可以說是十分的「刺激」。

After we arrived at Lun Pi tribe, led by Ashong, we jumped into a truck with a small black dog. From here to the entrance of the mountain, the road was quite a bit bumpy. We all needed to maintain balance and watch out for the branches attack. It was very “exciting”!

每一個獵人都會擁有一個以上的獵犬，而大多獵犬都是台灣黑狗。Ashong的黑狗一路上則緊跟著卡車後頭跑，卡車的速度時快時慢，不管多慢，他永遠都不會超過卡車，是一隻有教養的好狗。更可愛的是，路上有大大小小的泥水灘，他邊努力跑邊同時也順便做一下泥水spa，真是笑壞大夥了。

Every hunter owns at least one hunting dog and it is usually a black dog. Ashong’s black dog followed the truck. No matter how fast or slow the truck was, the black dog had never passed the truck. He was such a well disciplined dog. It was so interesting seeing the black dog doing the muddy spa in every muddy water we passed by. We had a good laugh.

從登山口步行一小段抵達三叉口後，在這裡要舉行傳統的入山儀式。Ashong收起方才一派輕鬆的笑容，誠敬的端起米酒，閉著眼用母語與祖靈溝通，告知此行目地與請祖靈庇佑此行順利平安。接著，向祖靈敬酒並啜飲一口後，大夥也輪流啜飲，不喝酒的人也可以用手指沾酒再輕灑地面。

After we passed through the mountain entrance, a ceremony was held for entering the mountain at the intersection. Ashong put away his smile, held the millet wine cup with his eyes closed, communicated with ancestors with his native language, wishing a safe trip from the blessing of the ancestors. He tossed to the ancestral spirits with one sip. We all took turns to have a sip. The ones who did not drink could sprinkle the wine on the ground with fingers.

步行在生機盎然、綠蔭遮天的原始山徑，雖然陡上陡下耗費不少氣力，但仍讓人覺得十分舒服。

Walking in the lively and shrouded tree mountain trail, we were exhausted, but we still found it very comfortable.

沿途Ashong教大家觀察獸跡、聽聲辨認動物。這個刨痕是鼬獾抓的地洞、那個地窪是山豬玩過的痕跡，小小凹痕形狀的足跡則是山羌的腳印，還有什麼動物的排遺，遠處的山羌叫聲是公是母，他都一清二楚。跟著有經驗的獵人入山，感官似乎都活躍起來了。

Ashong was showing us how to observe the footprints of animals, and identify them by their sounds. This mark was left by a ferret badger, and that hole was made by a mountain swine. The small dent was the footprints of a Muntiacus reevesi. Whether the waste was from the animal or whether the sound was from a female or a male Muntiacus reevesi’s, Ashong knows all the answers. Following him to hunt, my senses seemed to act up as well.

一路上，Ahsong還介紹各種植物的妙用，哪些植物有毒千萬碰不得，哪些又可以採集做為果腹的食物，受傷了可以用什麼植物減輕症狀，口渴了又該如何處理……說著說著，他用隨身的獵刀取下一截黃藤，「獵人上山不帶水的，口渴喝這個就好。」，看似乾乾的枝條竟涓涓流出了汁液，接過杯子，啜飲了一小口，沒想到黃藤的汁液竟如此清甜。大自然就像一個天然的超級市場，難怪Ahsong只要一把刀、一包米、一包鹽，就可以在山上生活個把月。

Ahsong was also telling us the function of each plant. Which ones can’t be touched because of the poisonous, which ones can be eaten, which ones can alleviate the symptoms after the injury, and how to release the thirsty… After all these, he then cut off a yellow vine. He said “Hunter does not bring water with him. Drink this instead!” The juice came out from the yellow vine. It tasted unbelievably sweet and fresh after a sip. Mother Nature is just like a natural supermarket. No wonder as long as Ahsong has a knife, a bag of rice, and salt, he can live inside the mountain for a couple months.

順著陡降坡一路下行，還未見到崙埤池的蹤影，就聽到此起彼落的蛙鳴聲，心也益發興奮起來了。沒多久，終於見到了這個隱身於山林裡的崙埤池。

Following the slope all the way down, I did not see the Lun Pi pond, but heard lots of frog sounds. I was getting excited. Not for too long, I finally saw the hidden Lun Pi pond.

崙埤池四周平坦，有著各式各樣的水生植物，如水毛花、東亞黑三稜及穀精草等。

The Lun Pi pond is surrounded with flat area. It contains a variety of water plants.

這裡蛙鳴此起彼落，蜻蜓、豆娘成群飛舞，如果幸運的話，還可以在此見到戲水的小雁鴨呢！

With the continuous sound of frogs and dancing of dragonflies and damselflies, you could also see the wild geese duck if you are lucky!

崙埤池的湖面，覆蓋了滿滿小巧可愛、外型橢圓的浮葉植株，這是瀕危的稀有植物－蓴菜。

The Lun Pi pond is covered by a small oval shape floating plant which is one of the rare and endangered plants - Brasenia Schreberi.

蓴菜的背葉及嫩莖上，會分泌一種膠質，看起來像就像是黏覆著晶亮的果凍一般。據報導，蓴菜不僅可以治熱疽、降火氣，還有抑制癌細胞的功效，有很高的藥用價值。崙埤池全台僅有的二處蓴菜的天然生育地之一，因此備受國內植物界的重視。

On the back and stem of the Brasenia Schreberi, a shining jell grows and looks like a jelly. It was reported that Brasenia Schreberi can reduce heat, release anger, and inhibit the growth of cancer cells. It has a pretty high medical value. Lun Pi pond is one of the two places in Taiwan growing Brasenia Schreberi and has generated lots of attention.

在崙埤池悠晃了一個小時後，大夥便下山用餐。我們的中餐是在「三個伊娜的店」享用的，涼拌山蘇、炒山豬肉刈包、黃金豆腐、馬告排骨、刺蔥雞肉…..每一道都相當的美味好吃，專程來此享用一餐，都非常的值得。

After an hour at the pond, we came back for lunch. We had our meals at “Three Ina Shop”. Shan Shu salad, fried pork with bun, golden tofu, rib, and green onion chicken all were delicious. It was a worthwhile experience.

吃完了午餐，接下來是參觀Ashong的獵人工作室。Ashong的工作室是用自家屋子後方與擋土牆的空間搭建起來的，十分簡陋狹小，但這並無損他想分享狩獵文化的心意。

We now visited Ashong’s work studio. The studio was built by retaining walls in his backyard and is very simple and small, but it does not affect his desire in sharing his hunting culture.

六年級生的Ashong放棄高薪的工作，返鄉專職於不穩定的嚮導工作，為的就是部落狩獵文化的傳承。從小跟著父親到山上打獵的Ashong，有著紮實的狩獵技能與山野知識，是目前難得的中生代獵人。

Ashong at the age of mid 30s gave up a higher pay job and returned to the mountain to be a guide in order to continue the tribal hunting culture. He started hunting with his father in his childhood years. Now he has a solid foundation of hunting skills and knowledge. He is such a good candidate for being a hunter for his age.

工作室內有著各種狩獵用具，如弓、箭、矛、木槍、魚叉、魚籠等，Asong一一為大家仔細解說各種獵具的使用方式與功能。箭尖又有分單支、雙叉頭及三叉頭等，依捕獵的對象使用不同的箭。

There is a variety of hunting weapons, such as bows, arrows, spears, wooden guns, harpoons, fish cages, etc. Asong explained the details of each weapon’s function and handling method. The arrowhead has single, double and triple arrow heads. Each animal is hunted by a different arrow head.

這個傳統木槍看起來很沒殺傷力，經Ashong的說明與示範後，才知木槍還真是不簡單。不過，使用木槍須申請「槍牌」，當然Ashong是合法的「槍枝」擁有者。

The traditional wooden gun did not look lethal. However, it was not what I thought, after Ashong explained and demonstrated. A license is needed by using the wooden gun. Of course, Ashong is legal to own his gun.

除了獵具外，還有獸皮衣、黃藤背簍、竹編容器、煙斗及煙袋等日常用品。照片中用獸皮製成的披風，是獵人在上山打獵時的雨衣，穿的時候是毛面朝內可保暖，而外皮有防雨作用。在獵寮睡覺時，也可鋪在地上或蓋在身上當作被子，十分好用。

In addition to the hunting weapons, there are animal leather, yellow rattan basket carry-on, bamboo containers, pipe, and other daily necessities in his studio. In the photo a cloak is shown and was made by the animal skin which was his raincoat. It can keep warm and is also water resistant. It can also become a sleeping bag. It is very easy to use.

除了解說獵具用途，Ashong也分享了許多傳統獵人在狩獵時的原則，打獵不是貪心的殺戮，他們必須嚴守許多規則，顧及生態的平衡，並以尊敬、感恩及謙卑的心來面對大自然。其實，不管哪一族的原住民，都有著強烈的土地倫理與自然共生的概念，是相當值得我們學習的。

Ashong also shared with us the hunting principles. Hunter can’t be greedy. They have to follow the rules to keep eco-balanced and respect our Mother Nature. In fact, no matter which tribes of indigenous people, they all have a strong land ethic and natural harmony concept. We all need to learn from them.

Ashong-[泰雅獵人工作室]

http://tayanashong.blogspot.com/

0960-147410

"Three Ina Shop"-[三個伊娜的店]

03-9802162

Yilan County, Da Tuing Township, Lun Pi Village, Cao Yang Lane, #11

宜蘭縣大同鄉崙埤村朝陽巷11號 Read More

Seeking Tainan’s old-time taste

When visiting Tainan, the wide variety of Tainan street food is one thing you really don’t want to miss. There is a saying that if you have not tried the Tainan street food, then you have not seen Taiwan.

Getting off the train at the Tainan train station, we walked through the east, south, west, north districts, and Anping area within two days looking for Tainan’s old-time taste (古早味). The walk was pretty exhausting, but our findings were exciting and highlighted our trip!

Tofu Pudding (豆花)

The birthplace of Tofu Pudding was in Tainan before it became popular in other cities in Taiwan. Two places that we had Tofu Pudding were “Hsiu Ann Peddler Tofu Pudding” (修安扁擔豆花) in the city of Tainan, and “Anping Tofu Pudding” (同記安平豆花) in Anping.

During the old time, Tofu Pudding was put into two heated wooden buckets and carried by peddlers on the street. The peddler scooped the warm tofu pudding with a metal spoon and served it in a white china bowl with blue flowers by adding sugar water, peanuts, or Chinese donuts. The ingredients of Tofu Pudding are soy beans, water, and solidifier. Soy beans were submerged in water for 4-6 hours and then blended, filtered, drained, and boiled. The temperature was then reduced to 90C, the solidifier was last added. After 10 minutes, the mixtures will become Tofu Pudding. However, the technique in adding solidifier is the key to a good quality Tofu Pudding.

Anping Tofu Pudding is well-known by its purity, smoothness, and taste. It has old-time flavors which bring hundreds of customers every day. Tofu Pudding is served in a clear glass bowl just like the old time. Tapioca and red bean toppings are very popular and worth to try! Anping Tofu Pudding is not that sweet as Hsiu Ann’s.

Anping Tofu Pudding: Bei Ann Road, #433, Annping, Tainan (台南市安平區北安路433號)

Hsiu Ann Peddler Tofu Pudding: Zhong Shan Road #83, West Central District, Tainan (台南市中西區中山路83號)

Leng Tih Tong Fried Cookies (連得堂餅家)

Walking on the Chung Ann street, the smell of cookie dough brought us to Leng Tih Tong. The smell also brought out all the neighbors and out of town visitors!

Leng Tih Tong is operated by the 4th generation from the family now. A large, specially made ancient round oven has been making different shapes of fried cookies with different flavors. They are crispy, hard, and with pure flavors of egg and milk. One customer can only buy 2 bags per day. There is no exception for out of town visitors!

Chung Ann Street, #54, North District, Tainan (台南市北區崇安街54號)

Taiwan Oden NT2 (台南黑輪 NT2)

Near the Confucius temple, a unique BBQ place gave me the childhood finger food taste. Fish ball, meat ball, sausage, chicken, pork, and squid…etc are all served on sticks. A short stick costs NT2 and a long stick NT5. All the sticks are placed in a bamboo tube on the table when you finish eating for the total counts. They have Tainan’s flavor with a bit sweet BBQ flavors. I especially like the Fish ball. It is a very small amount on each stick though; so you may end up ordering 100-200 sticks to feel full or just eat them as an appetizer.

Kaishan Road, West Central District, Tainan (台南市中西區開山路)

Chih Kan Danzi Noodle (赤崁擔仔麵)

Located on Ming Tsu Road, Chi Kan Danzi Noodle offers an old time environment for your meals. Sitting on the childhood classroom chair and desk, we really felt like we were in the 70’s. This house is a 100 year historical building. It’s hard to believe that it was once a dentist office.

According to the legend, fisherman Hung wanted to make living while he could not go out to sea during the typhoon season. He started to make his own recipe for the noodle dish garnished with minced pork and spices. In 1895, Hung started selling his special noodles by carrying two loads and a lantern, all tied to a bamboo pole to put over his shoulders. These noodles were often called "Danzi mien", which meant shoulder burden or peddler's noodles in Taiwanese. The fourth generation of the family now runs the business, which is the famous “Tu Hsiao Yueh”.(度小月)

We did not eat at the Tu Hsiao Yueh place this time due to the time constraint. However, Chih Kan Danzi noodle is as good as Tu Hsiao Yueh’s. No MSG is added. The tasty soup is purely made from large pork bones, and fresh shrimp, and the lean minced pork does not make soup greasy at all.

Ming Tsu Road, Lane 2, #180, Tainan (台南市民族路2段180號)

Chou’s shrimp roll (周氏蝦捲)

Always brings huge crowd on the weekends, Chou’s shrimp roll in Anping is the place that tourists would not miss. Mr. Chou was banquets cater in 1965; shrimp roll was one of his specialties. Until 1980, he named “Chou’s Shrimp Roll” after he innovated the ingredients of the shrimp roll. We could not wait to taste the three popular dishes at this place- shrimp roll, milkfish soup, and fish thick soup.( see pictures above and below ) Shrimps are wrapping with pig stomach membrane and deep fried. All ingredients are so fresh, delicious, and tasty. Eat or dip with threaded gingers or soy sauce paste would even bring up more flavors!

Ann Ping Raod #125, Tainan (台南市安平路125號)

Rice Dumpling (台南肉粽)

Tainan rice dumpling is made with pork, peanuts, and long glutinous rice. It is wrapped in bamboo leaves. The difference of rice dumpling cooking method between northern and southern Taiwan is- “Steam in the north, and boil in the south”. In Tainan, after filled with uncooked rice with sauces, a piece of cooked pork, and a few peanuts, the wrapped rice dumpling is boiled in the water until the flavors go into the rice. A very simple traditional cooking method had kept Tainan rice dumpling for half of a century.

Salty Rice pudding (碗粿)

The traditional Tainan salt rice pudding was basically made with rice paste by adding minced pork sauce and steaming them in a bowl. Now, more ingredients can be seen, such as pork, shrimp, mushroom, and egg yolk. In the old time, bamboo stick was used for serving because the fork was expensive. Now, there are only a few places in Tainan still offering bamboo sticks as the utensils in serving salty rice pudding.

Eels noodle (鱔魚麵)

Eel Noodles is a typical local dish in Tainan. Eels are expensive, but they are tasty and have high protein. They are stir fried with high temperature to keep freshness. Noodles are tender and juicy. Eels usually are prepared in a sweet and sour flavor in Tainan, and in salty spicy flavor in northern Taiwan.

Jiow Lai Fa Bakery (舊來發糕餅)

“Shiang Bing” (香餅) can only be made in Jiow Lai Fa Bakery in Tainan. This unique round shape biscuit with a very thin and soft crust is completely hollow inside with black sugar.(see the first picture below) In the old time, Shiang Bing was a nutritious food to feed the woman who just delivered her baby. A hole is poked in the middle of a Shiang Bing, an egg added, jingles cooked, and sesame oil added inside the hole until the egg become harder. The Shiang Bing is flatted and fried on both sides until it turns golden brown. Shiang Bing was also called “Yueh Zi Bing” (月子餅) in the past.

With a 134 year history, Jiow Lai Fa is operated by the 4th and 5th generation from the family. All pastries are made for special events, wedding, birthday, or Yueh Zi (月子) (the first month after woman just delivers her baby). All kinds of pastries in the store made my mouth water and of course we brought home bags of goodies! Be careful in holding the Shiang Bing in a bag, since the crust is so thin and breaks very easily.

Zi Chiang Street #15, Tainan (台南市自強街15號)

Yi Feng Wax Gourd Tea (義豐阿川東瓜茶)

Near Chih Kan Tower, we were so glad to find the Yi Feng Wax Gourd Tea since we definitely needed a cold tea to relieve the sweating from walking.

Yi Feng was established in 1912 and is now run by the third generation from the family. Mr. Lin runs the business now and he is about 80 years old. On the left side of the building is the station selling different flavors of wax gourd Teas. On the right side is the wax gourd factory which only sells 50 handmade wax gourd brinks (冬瓜磚) per day. Usually the brinks are sold out by 11:00am. The handmade pure wax gourds tea with ancient technique brings in Yi Feng fans every day. It tastes just perfect for its sweetness!

Yuang Fu Road, lane 2, #212, Tainan (台南市永福路2段212號)

Salty Popsicle (鹹冰棒)

Salty Popsicle may not be the old-time taste, but it definitely is a unique dessert in Tainan. We ate these popsicles in Cigu, Salt Mountain (鹽山). I hesitated to try. But after the first bite, I could not stop finishing it. This Popsicle tasted sweet and salty with the flavor of walnut and egg yolk.

This was definitely a special treat before we concluded our Tainan’s old-time taste journey... Read More